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Troubleshooting Turn Signals
From: Ray Fichthorn
via the Studebaker Newsgroup
Problem: Front and rear lights are working
although turn-signals and stop lights does not .
The brake lights and dome light are on the same circuit- If neither work,
this may indicate a problem with the fuse. Check (them) first. The "lower"
fuse on the panel is for the brakes.. the "upper" fuse is for
the directional signals. While you are "poking" around there-
unplug the flasher unit- and clean the terminals. Then test all the bulbs
in the circuit.
The parking lights do not work either.
The headlights and (front) park lights are on different circuits- the
front "park" lights only come on when the dash switch is in
the down position (no headlights). This position is seldom used, so internal
corrosion is likely. I usually can jiggle and play with the switch to
work the corrosion off.. Try that with someone out front looking for the
park lights to flash or come on. If they do, but won't stay on, you may
need to disassemble the headlight switch to clean it- as that is where
the problem is
When I pull the turn-signal lever up or down nothing at all happens.
Should the directional lights the instrument panel flash like a modern
car?
Yes, the indicators in the dash flash when the turn signals are in use.
You should be able to hear the flasher unit clicking. If one of the indicator
lights comes on (and
stays on)- AND you hear the flasher "clicks"- but the indicator
bulb doesn't flash- That usually indicates a burnt-out turn signal bulb
on that side.
And how would I do with the stop lights?
As stated before- check the fuse and the bulbs first. Then proceed to
the Brake Light Switch. It is located on the frame- to the left of the
engine (drivers side), below the starter solenoid, in front of the steering
box..just behind the upper control arm..get the idea? It's a round sender
with 2 "posts" sticking up from it. Unplug the 2 wires from
it ( it doesn't matter which goes where). One is RED, the other is RED
with a WHITE tracer. The RED one should be "hot". Use a test
light to verify you have power... ..or you can use a jumper wire to bypass
the brake light switch. If the brake lights work, the switch is either
bad or the terminals/connectors are corroded.
This is the point that the Turn Signals get complicated. When you are
STOPPED with your foot on the brakes (both brake lights on).. and turn
on the turn signals- The corresponding BRAKE light bulb must be bypassed-
so that the filament will flash. This is where the 2 circuits are dependant
on each other. The RED/Wt tracer wire from the brake light switch- goes
into the main harness up to the Turn Signal Switch (TSS). The TSS.. breaks
the circuit to that brake light- when the Directional Signals are used.
IF the TSS is corroded (common) or burnt out (not so common)... the directional
signals will not work. You need to check for power at the TSS Connector
(about 1" square black junction block)- where it comes out of the
steering column and into the Main Wiring Harness. Here's what to look
for:
- ***Turn ignition switch to the Accessory position***
Check for power to the TSS at the BLACK Wire going TO the connector
from the main harness The lead should be "hot"
- Place the lever in the Left Turn position, and check for power on
the TAN wire and the White w/TAN Tracer wire going TO the connector
FROM the TSS. Both should be "hot".
- Place the lever in the Right Turn position, and check for power on
the GREEN wire and White w/GREEN Tracer wire going TO the connector
FROM the TSS. Both should be "hot".
It's important that these wires
be returned to their original positions... So try to do them 1 at a time.
It is also wise to use some small needle-nosed pliers to unplug the the
wires from the junction block. Usually a small twist will release them.
Somewhere you will find something amiss... hopefully it's just corrosion,
fuses, or bulbs. Long-distance electrical troubleshooting is difficult!
<BG>
Ray
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